Choosing the ideal Developer strength & acquiring the Mix best Are Really essential For the Final color Result.

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Bullet-Point an overview - gaining your Developer usage Right

Choose your developer strength according come the variety of levels of background you space trying come achieve.The rules when using shade are together follows:20 Vol because that 1-2 levels lift, blonde toning and grey hair coverage.30 Vol for 2-3 level lift40 Vol for 3 levels lift and more.The rules once using bleach are:20 Vol for the regrowth area and also for 1-2 level lift30 Vol because that 3 level lift and also more, only for the lengths.The rules because that developer mix are:1+1 mix for Ugly Duckling regular color1+2 mix because that Ugly Duckling toners and high background colors1+2 mix for Ugly Duckling bleaches.

FOR an ext INFORMATION ~ above DEVELOPER selection WITH COLOR examine OUT THIS video clip TUTORIAL:

1. What walk the Developer do when I mix it through the Color?

The developer, additionally sometimes well-known as activator, is basically hydrogen peroxide in a cream base.The higher the concentration the hydrogen peroxide, the higher "Vol" that developer: 10 Vol, 20 Vol, 30 Vol, 40 Vol.The developer helps open up the hair cuticle and activate the hair color.If used by chin (ie without color or bleach) the developer will certainly lift the hair color, yet the color an outcome will not be good.For ideal results, you must mix developer v a color.

2. What are the generally used Developer Strengths?

10 Volume Developer...also well-known as 3%20 Volume Developer....also recognized as 6%30 Volume Developer...also well-known as 9%40 Volume Developer...also recognized as 12%

The percentages over refer to the concentration the hydrogen peroxide in the developerThe higher the concentration, the more "lift" the developer has.

3. So Which Developer Strength must I Use? 

Use 10 Vol for level top top level-on-level color and going darker.Use 20 Vol for 1-2 level lift, for toning blonde hair and for grey hair coverage.Use 30 Vol because that 2-3 level liftUse 40 Vol because that 3 levels lift and also more.

And if you space using bleach and also trying come go substantially lighter, then usage either 20 Vol developer (1-2 level lift) or 30 Vol developer (3 levels lift or more).

Refer to the hair shade chart below to calculation how many levels you have to lift by.


First, number out wherein your hair is currently.

Use the left next of the chart listed below to number out what level your natural hair shade (virgin hair) is top top a range of 1-10.If you have actually lengths which have been previously bleached or colored, you can use the appropriate side additionally to help you number out the underlying level.

So for instance if there is orange in your hair, you room at level 5 light Brown. If over there is a many yellow/orange, you space somewhere in between level 6 and level 7.

Next, number out what level you room aiming for.

If, for example you are going because that a true blonde color, the answer would certainly be either 9 or 10.

Finally, subtract the 2 numbers to figure out the level background required.

Assume her regrowth is level 5. The would typical that you should lift it by 5 levels.

Or assume. Your hair is level 6 everywhere and also once again you are going for a true blonde shade level 10. The would mean that friend would should lift by about 4 levels.

Make certain you do this calculation for every part of her hair, since your regrowth can be one level and also your previously colored lengths could be another.

So in the 2 instances above, the lift forced is much more than 3 levels everywhere, and also you will should use one Ugly Duckling bleach or high elevator color.

4. Why usage 20 Vol Developer for Toning? 

Toning is level on level, so 10 Vol, Right?Umm...not so fast!!If you are toning at a dark blonde level or lower, you deserve to go ahead and use 10 Vol Developer.It will last less long than utilizing 20 Vol, however the result will be OK.But when you space trying to walk blonde, using 10 Vol developer is i can not qualify to offer you great results.In general, 20 Vol opens up the cuticle more, allows the hair"s organic melanin come escape and deposits vivid pigments lot deeper than 10 Vol will do.This is why 20 Vol normally produces an ext vibrant shade results than 10 Vol.Most Ugly Duckling stylists usage 20 Vol in the videos that we placed out ~ above Facebook.That is how they get those beautiful platinum and ultra white ash blonde results.


Take a look in ~ the images above. It"s a really typical case.The hair is really really brassy in particular areas and also actually dark blonde in others.As a barber you need to really be making use of bleach come lift increase the dark components first. That would certainly be the correct thing to do.You can instead use Ugly Duckling"s extreme Pearl Blonde toner through 20 Vol & the would work-related too. What would certainly not job-related is to tone with 10 Vol ~ above this form of hair.

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5. Why usage 20 Vol Developer because that Grey Hair Coverage? 

So as soon as I am doing grey hair coverage, that"s level-on-level. So I use 10 Vol, Right?Umm...once again...not therefore fast!If you have actually 25% grey hair or much less than 10 Vol will be OK.But as soon as again, the truth that 10 Vol developer go not penetrate deeply into the hair cuticle will penalise your end result.For much more than 25% grey hair, us recommend 20 Vol fairly than 10 Vol.You will be softening the cortex much more and depositing shade pigments deeper, not simply coating the outside.The hair color will also last much longer that way.